y, retiring women of the market-place to stand in a frightened,
disgruntled, barefooted group before the camera. The women were dressed
in the customary tight bodices, heavy woolen skirts, and voluminous
petticoats of the plateau. Over their shoulders were pinned heavy
woolen shawls, woven on hand looms. On their heads were reversible
"pancake" hats made of straw, covered on the wet-weather side with
coarse woolen stuff and on the fair-weather side with tinsel and
velveteen. In accordance with local custom, tassels and fringes hung
down on both sides. It is said that the first Inca ordered the dresses
of each village to be different, so that his officials might know
to which tribe an Indian belonged. It was only with great difficulty
and by the combined efforts of a good-natured priest, the gobernador
or mayor, and the alcaldes that a dozen very reluctant females
were finally persuaded to face the camera. The expression of their
faces was very eloquent. Some were highly indignant, others looked
foolish or supercilious, two or three were thoroughly frightened, not
knowing what evil might befall them next. Not one gave any evidence
of enjoying it or taking the matter as a good joke, although that
was the attitude assumed by all their male acquaintances. In fact,
some of the men were so anxious to have their pictures taken that
they followed us about and posed on the edge of every group.

Men and boys all wore knitted woolen caps, with ear flaps, which they
seldom remove either day or night. On top of these were large felt
hats, turned up in front so as to give a bold aspect to their husky
wearers. Over their shoulders were heavy woolen ponchos, decorated with
bright stripes. Their trousers end abruptly halfway between knee and
ankle, a convenient style for herdsmen who have to walk in the long,
dewy grasses of the plateau. These "high-water" pantaloons do not
look badly when worn with sandals, as is the usual custom; but since
this was Sunday all the well-to-do men had put on European boots,
which did not come up to the bottom of their trousers and produced
a singular effect, hardly likely to become fashionable.

The prosperity of the town was also shown by corrugated iron roofs. Far
less picturesque than thatch or tile, they require less attention
and give greater satisfaction during the rainy season. They can also
be securely bolted to the rafters. On this wind-swept plateau we
frequently noticed that a thatched roof w