d and there were many grain fields in sight, although
few seemed to be terraced. The surrounding hills were smooth and
well rounded and the valley bottom contained much alluvial land. We
passed through it and, after dark, reached Sondor, a tiny hamlet
inhabited by extremely suspicious and inhospitable drovers. In the
darkness Don Pablo pleaded with the owners of a well-thatched hut,
and told them how "important" we were. They were unwilling to give
us any shelter, so we were forced to pitch our tent in the very rocky
and dirty corral immediately in front of one of the huts, where pigs,
dogs, and cattle annoyed us all night. If we had arrived before dark
we might have received a different welcome. As a matter of fact,
the herdsmen only showed the customary hostility of mountaineers and
wilderness folk to those who do not arrive in the daytime, when they
can be plainly seen and fully discussed.

The next morning we passed some fairly recent lava flows and noted also
many curious rock forms caused by wind and sand erosion. We had now
left the belt of grazing lands and once more come into the desert. At
length we reached the rim of the mile-deep Caraveli Canyon and our eyes
were gladdened at sight of the rich green oasis, a striking contrast
to the barren walls of the canyon. As we descended the long, winding
road we passed many fine specimens of tree cactus. At the foot of the
steep descent we found ourselves separated from the nearest settlement
by a very wide river, which it was necessary to ford. Neither of the
Tejadas had ever been here before and its depths and dangers were
unknown. Fortunately Pablo found a forlorn individual living in a
tiny hut on the bank, who indicated which way lay safety. After an
exciting two hours we finally got across to the desired shore. Animals
and men were glad enough to leave the high, arid desert and enter
the oasis of Caraveli with its luscious, green fields of alfalfa,
its shady fig trees and tall eucalyptus. The air, pungent with the
smell of rich vegetation, seemed cooler and more invigorating.

We found at Caraveli a modern British enterprise, the gold mine of
"La Victoria." Mr. Prain, the Manager, and his associates at the
camp gave us a cordial welcome, and a wonderful dinner which I shall
long remember. After two months in the coastal desert it seemed like
home. During the evening we learned of the difficulties Mr. Prain
had had in bringing his machinery across the plateau fro