calliope, and had the voice of an African lion when out of meat.
His trained organ was so ear-piercing that much to "Billfinger's"
annoyance several ladies deserted our party and fled to one of the
other guides who had a soft, sweet voice.

The party was large and each guide was obliged to keep twenty minutes
behind the band before him. This was done like clockwork, and yet,
such is the uncertainty of such arrangements and the intensity of the
human desire to get ahead of one's neighbors that, do as he would,
Billfinger was constantly butting his leaders into the rear of the
enemy--for such they were regarded, once the procession got into full
swing and the excitement had reached its zenith. This led to endless
confusion, and the members of party No. 9 (our set) had to be fished
out and sorted from the ranks of Nos. 10 and 8, thus producing many
violent squabbles among the guides. Adjustments were slow and by the
time they were made a general congestion had set in at the rear and the
"Corks" were all bobbing round in hopeless confusion, extending even to
the outer gates at which we had entered the citadel. But the man with
the voice from Chicago now came into his own and showed how easily he
could quell a friendly riot. He mounted a parapet and with a green
umbrella as a baton shouted back his orders, and they were obeyed with
such telling effect that in a short time the procession moved like a
well oiled machine and we had no further trouble. By most of the
pilgrims it was considered that this was hardly a fitting or dignified
entrance into one of the noblest ruins of any time or country; but this
is a practical age, and we got right down to the business of inspecting
what is left of the Alhambra. When such a man as Washington Irving was
so inspired by the marvelous beauty of this place and lived ninety days
in one of these buildings (which was pointed out to us by Billfinger),
in order to get the spirit of the times and place in which these halls
were erected and peopled, and there wrote his celebrated historical and
romantic book, _Tales of the Alhambra_, published in 1829 (obtainable
in any library), it would seem best that I leave the reader to peruse
that famous work for ideas and details which, should they be supplied
by the ordinary scribbler, could but belittle such a noble subject. I
therefore suggest that those interested procure that book and read it
for themselves.

[Illustration: THESE SANDOWS OF