pular
Irish admiral, had gained his title, he commanded the _Condor_ at the
siege of this city, and before the Turks knew it he had stolen under
their forts and they could not point their "graft"-made guns down on him.
Through this advantage he "batted out" a famous victory and the Turks
surrendered in short order. After he had completed the _coup_, his
admiral signaled the now famous words, "Well done, _Condor_!" which rival
the Duke's, "Up, Guards, and at them!" of Waterloo memory. He is to-day
almost as well known and as great a favorite in America as he is in
London.

We took the train and arrived at Cairo in four hours.

EGYPT

CAIRO

Cairo is the largest city in Africa, having a population of 570,000, of
whom 35,000 are Europeans. It is the Paris of the East, and is the
most varied and fascinating place on the earth. It is a military city
with English soldiers, Arab lancers, Soudanese infantry and Egyptian
cavalry, all in picturesque variety of uniform; added to this is the
gayety of the official government life, all on pleasure bent. Most of
their time is spent in play, as they only work from 10 till 1 P.M.--the
climate prevents longer hours. Cairo has every amusement of the
European capital, and each is played for all it is worth. I was there
in 1874 on my way round the world, and I now found it so much changed
and improved that it was a strange place to me. I stayed at
"Shepheard's" both times. On my first visit this hotel was set in a
tropical park and had no buildings near it; now it is closely
surrounded by high, costly, substantial structures quite cosmopolitan
in their appearance. It was the only good hotel then; now there are
half a dozen rivals, as Egypt has become a great winter resort for
fashion and health. From Shepheard's veranda, crowded with tourists,
one may see hawkers of all kinds yelling, or coaxing possible
purchasers, and offering post-cards, ornamental fly-whisks,
walking-sticks, shawls, scarabs, etc.; snake charmers, boys with
performing animals, jugglers, and every possible thing you can think of
that might be bought for a souvenir; then we have the Egyptian women
with blue gowns and their faces below the eyes hidden by hideous black
veils; Bedouins from the desert; a pasha in state, with runners both
before and behind his carriage; a professional letter-writer who for a
couple of _piastres_ will write a letter in almost any desired
language; a camel train laden with