angy, flea-bitten dogs);
Easy Boss of Broussa, as well as Damascus, which is the "Scent of
Paradise;"
"King of Kings"--(and two-spots); whose army is the asylum of "graft"
and dummy guns; at the foot of whose throne sits Justice with the
bandage off one eye so she can watch the coin!
SMYRNA
We left Constantinople without regret and steamed up into the Black
Sea, making a circle in it, and then returned down into the Sea of
Marmora, so as to get a good view of both the Asiatic and European
sides of the city; then out, through the Dardanelles and on to Smyrna.
This passage was all over classic ground, and every mile of it has made
history for thousands of years.
Smyrna has 225,000 people, and is the cleanest and most respectable
city the Turks own. In ancient times Croesus lived here after he had
made his pile, and at the present day great numbers of wealthy men make
it their home, and there is a good deal of luxury seen in the suburbs.
It has the trade from Asia Minor. Homer was born here, and wrote and
sang his immortal poetry along its rocky shores. It was conquered by
Alexander the Great, and after he had destroyed it he ordered it
rebuilt a few miles farther off so as not to forget it, and it became
very prosperous. The Knights of Malta and the Arabs fought the Turks
for many years for its possession, but the Turks have held it against
all comers up to date. It was shaken down to ruins by an earthquake in
180 A.D., and this was followed by disastrous shocks in 1688, 1788, and
1880.
Its great trade is in figs, dates, sponges, silks, and rugs; but the
greatest of these is the rug. These stuffs come in loaded on long
trains of camels. I may say that no one has any idea of what this
animal is like if he has only seen it in a zoo or in a circus parade.
I watched the trains by the hour with absorbing interest. The
professional, business camel is a big, fine, intelligent animal, who
carries himself with the utmost dignity and strides along looking
neither to the right nor the left, refusing to take notice of any noise
or disturbance that would--and often does--upset his owners, whom he
follows with implicit confidence. He is willing to make an honest and
prompt return for his food and the care that is given him. I could not
help thinking that if a man from Mars came down and did not know the
conditions here, he would think the camel was master, and not the noisy
crowd that surrounded him.
St. Po
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