ur learned guide--known to the "Corks" as
"Red Lead," on account of the lurid color of his hair. He wore an
Oscar Hammerstein opera hat and seemed condemned to live on earth but
for a certain time--and all whom he met wished for its speedy
expiration. In a single, simple, instructive sentence he requested us
to "Joost look at dat figger and see how the master have carve them
feets; they are both two much alike."

[Illustration: CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE GOLDEN HORN CROSSED BY THE GALATA
BRIDGE, WITH STAMBOUL IN THE FOREGROUND. THE YOUNG TURKS PRESENTED
THIS AS THE FIRST SNAP OF THEIR OFFICIAL CAMERA. LATER THEY
"DEDICATED" THE BRIDGE BY HANGING THE FIRST BATCH OF MURDERERS ON IT]

Most of these things, and many more, were the gifts of King Charles V.,
King Ferdinand, Queen Isabella and others, with a Sultan or two thrown
in for good measure. All this grandeur is spread over 124,000 square
feet, exceeded only a little by St. Peter's in Rome.

In the plethora of good things I had almost forgotten to mention the
Tomb of Columbus, a finely carved sarcophagus in solid bronze. Heroic,
allegorical figures support it and it is an imposing coffin in every
respect.

The size of this great Cathedral is three hundred and eighty by two
hundred and fifty feet, and a week might be spent in seeking out the
vast treasures which run the gamut of art and money from its top round
to the bottom. There are many other churches here, but to try to write
of them after attempting to describe the Cathedral would be like an
introduction to Tom Thumb after having spent the day with Chang, the
Chinese giant. However, we can hardly overlook the Alcazar, which
"cuts" considerable "ice," even in this hot climate. It is the palace
of the late Moorish kings, containing the famous Court of the Maidens
and the Hall of the Ambassadors. It cost a good many millions of
_pesetas_ to erect its front elevations, not to speak of its elaborate
interior decorations, although the workmen only received two pence per
day, and they had a local "blue card" union at that.

The "Order of the Corks," both men and women, all went to see a grand
series of Spanish dances at the theatre, got up for their delectation
and amusement. No band of enthusiastic pilgrims ever started in such
high feather to see a dramatic and terpsichorean feast as did we.
There was an expression of mystery and expectancy on every face. Mary
Garden and all she does would be a mere flea b