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Perfumers, acting upon their own or Dr. Quincy's advice, pay no regard
to the apples in the preparation of pomatum, but make it by perfuming
lard or suet, or a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and oil, or some of them
or all blended, to produce a particular result, according to the name
that it bears.
The most important thing to consider in the manufacture of pomatum, &c.,
is to start off with a _perfectly inodorous_ grease, whatever that
grease may be.
Inodorous lard is obtained thus:--Take, say 28 lbs. of _perfectly fresh_
lard, place it in a well-glazed vessel, that can be submitted to the
heat of a boiling salt-water bath, or by steam under a slight pressure;
when the lard is melted, add to it one ounce of powdered alum and two
ounces of table salt; maintain the heat for some time, in fact till a
scum rises, consisting in a great measure of coagulated proteine
compounds, membrane, &c., which must be skimmed off; when the liquid
grease appears of a uniform nature it is allowed to grow cold.
The lard is now to be washed. This is done in small portions at a time,
and is a work of much labor, which, however, is amply repaid by the
result. About a pound of the grease is now placed on a slate slab a
little on the incline, a supply of good water being set to trickle over
it; the surface of the grease is then constantly renewed by an operative
working a muller over it, precisely as a color-maker grinds paints in
oil. In this way the water removes any traces of alum or salt, also the
last traces of nitrogenous matter. Finally, the grease, when the whole
is washed in this way, is remelted, the heat being maintained enough to
drive off any adhering water. When cold it is finished.
Although purifying grease in this way is troublesome, and takes a good
deal of time, yet unless done so, it is totally unfit for perfuming with
flowers, because a bad grease will cost more in perfume to cover its
_mal odeur_ than the expense of thus deodorizing it. Moreover, if lard
be used that "smells of the pig," it is next to impossible to impart to
it any delicate odor; and if strongly perfumed by the addition of ottos,
the unpurified grease will not keep, but quickly becomes rancid. Under
any circumstances, therefore, grease that is not _perfectly inodorous_
is a very expensive material to use in the manufacture of pomades.
In the South and flower-growing countries, where the fine pomades are
made by ENFLEURAGE, or by MACERATION[G] (se
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