n these curiously bright hues and
their fainter reflection on the rippling water, the nearer islands are
black as ink and the further mountains indigo.

_Tuesday, August 28th._--Besides the missionary pair, who are
accompanying me all the way from Hopedale to Europe, my fellow
passengers are now the superintendent, who has acceded to my request
to go with us to Okak, and a young missionary, transferred from Nain
to Ramah.

When I went on deck this morning we had passed the Turnpikes and were
gliding very slowly seawards between islands. The one which faced us
all the morning is called Tappe, after a worthy missionary, still
living, who served some years in Labrador, before going to Jerusalem
in 1867, to be the first "house-father" of the Leper Home. About noon
a fresh breeze sent us northward swiftly and safely through several
narrow and awkward passages. We passed two or three Newfoundland
fishing schooners, whose crews were doubtless interested to see the
"Dutch Bark," or the "foreigner" as they called the "Harmony." Our
other vessel, the "Gleaner," calls at St. John's, so she is not a
foreigner in the estimation of Newfoundland mariners. About two
o'clock we were off the island memorable for the shipwreck in which
Brasen and Lehmann lost their lives. Later we passed the rocks on to
which Liebisch and Turner escaped as by a miracle, when a sudden storm
broke up the ice over which they had been travelling. The scene must
have been terrific. One moment the frightened dogs drawing their
sledges were being urged at utmost speed over the leagues of heaving,
cracking ice. The nest, the shore was reached, and the missionaries
were overwhelmed with astonishment as they turned and looked upon a
raging, foaming sea, whose wild waves had already shattered the frozen
surface as far as the eye could reach. Even the heathen Eskimoes with
them joined in praising God for the wonderful deliverance.

This part of the coast is rugged and grand. There is a good deal of
snow on the heights of Aulatsivik and the northern extremity of that
great island is a bold precipitous cliff. Port Mauvers, at the mouth
of the narrow strait, which separates Aulatsivik from the mainland,
figures so prominently as a name upon most maps of Labrador, that one
might suppose it to be at least the capital. But there are no
inhabitants there, nor indeed all along the coast between Nain and
Okak. Kiglapeit, to the north, is so splendid a mountain range that I