ll the black eyes in eager attention to the Word
preached. The chapel being small, the people were rather near to the
benches occupied by the missionary brethren and sisters, and this
proximity was evident to the organs of smell. Several being away at
their fishing places, there were only about a dozen men and boys and
rather more women and girls with an extra sprinkling of lively and
healthy-looking babies. Most were characterized by an air of
independence amusingly illustrated at the close by the oldest man,
who asked aloud when the visitor from London was going to speak to
them.

[Illustration: TENTS AT RAMAH.]

And what of the spiritual life of this little congregation? In reply I
will give neither my own impressions, nor the missionary's testimony
to his flock, apt sometimes to be influenced by his estimate of what
they should be. I will call in a casual witness. Last year Eugenia, a
Christian Eskimo from Hopedale, visited all the congregations,
travelling to and fro by dog-sledge with the post-sledges. She
remarked to her missionary: "The Ramah and Okak people, those are the
best in the country. At Ramah I was quite shamed by their desire after
truth. They said, 'You know these things; teach us, we are so
stupid.'"

AN ESKIMO VILLAGE.

Now for a visit to our Eskimoes in their own dwellings, as the two
missionaries are ready to accompany me and interpret for me. It may
not be a pleasant expedition in every respect, as within and without
there is a pervading fishy smell. Rows of drying fish hang on frames
high enough to be out of reach of the dogs, who sniff about
everywhere, sometimes climbing into the boats to see if any fish be
left. Those red rows are trout, the white ones are cod.

When we arrived here last Sunday, two families were living in skin
tents. One has now taken down the temporary abode and removed into the
more permanent winter residence, a low turf hut. We will enter the
other tent. Frederick, the owner, is not at home, but his wife,
Susannah, is there with her two children. Whilst she inquires after
her former missionaries and sends a grateful greeting to the widow of
the late Samuel Weitz, take the opportunity to glance around the tent.
It is more spacious and better furnished than one would think. We can
all three stand upright in the middle of it, which is not possible in
every house. Deer skins spread on a raised platform at the further end
make two beds. In that open box are hym