ves
particular mention. Part of it is something in the style of the _Champs
Elysees_ at Paris, and it is fully equal to it in the variety of amusements
and enjoyments to be met with there; but it is far larger and more
beautiful on account of its landscape and the diversified manner in which
the grounds are laid out. The _Prater_, then, is an immense park, laid out
on an island of considerable extent on the Danube. The nearest faubourg to
it is the _Leopoldstadt_, which is also the most fashionable one, and a
bridge conducts you from that faubourg direct into the _Prater_. The
_Prater_ presents a mixture of garden, meadow, upland and forest; the lofty
trees arranged in avenues or in clumps give a delightful protecting shade.
On the road destined for the carriages there is every afternoon a most
brilliant display of carriages. Another avenue is destined for equestrians,
and two avenues, one on each side of these two, for pedestrians. There are
besides winding footpaths, that conduct you all over this vast extent of
ground, and circular grass plots surrounded by trees where the pedestrian
may repose and eat and drink if he will. Here are _restaurants_ in plenty,
_cafes_, Panoramas, exhibitions of wild beasts, swings, tennis courts,
places for running at the ring, do for burlesque dramatic performances,
_farceurs_, jugglers, De Bach's Equestrian Amphitheatre in the style of
Franconi, _Salles de Danse_, baths, billiard rooms, gaming tables, and even
houses appropriated to gallantry. In fact, the _Prater_ is quite the
Paradise of the bourgeoisie of Vienna, who are fond of the pleasures of the
table and take every opportunity of making dinner and supper parties. The
bourgeois of Vienna are far more sensual than spiritual and not at all
disposed to self-denial.

Excellent hams and sausages are to be had here; and the Viennese who dines
and sups heartily at his own house never fails, during his evening
promenade, to take a tolerable good portion of ham or sausage, with a
proportion of Offen wine or Maylander Beer, by way of staying his stomach
during the tedious interval between dinner and supper. I need scarce add
that smoking is universal, as indeed it is all over Germany, for I scarcely
ever see a German without a pipe either in his mouth or fastened to his
coat and a bag or pouch of tobacco either in his pocket or attached to his
button hole. In the _Prater_ dances often take place in the open air
between the grisettes of Vi