pulence and industry that prevails.
Before we arrived at Moelk, which is the next important place, we passed the
town of Ens and beyond that the famous _Strudel_ or Whirlpool which is
dangerous at times for boats. Our raft was completely whirled round. This
whirlpool is caused by rocks rising abruptly out of the water. The popular
tradition is that this whirlpool is the abode of a very malicious and
spiteful _Wassernixe_, Undine or Water Goblin, who delighted in drowning
passengers. The scenery hereabouts is more wild and romantic than what we
have hitherto passed and bears a great resemblance to the landscape on the
Rhine between Mayence and Coblentz. Moelk is an Abbey and a very magnificent
edifice it is, situated on an eminence which forms the angle with the river
and rises quite _a pio_ from the water's edge; it lies quite _en face_ to
those who approach it, descending the stream, so that the river seems to be
terminated by it. It commands a noble prospect. I had only time to inspect
hastily the church. Beyond Moelk is a range of rocks that bear a great
resemblance to a wall, and jut out a great deal towards the river. It is
called the _Devil's wall_ from the tradition of the Devil having
endeavoured to make a wall to dam up the river. Above this wall is the
famous castle and vineyard called _Spitz am Platz_, and further on is the
castle of Dierenstein, situated on a mountain on the left bank of the
Danube. The ascent is very steep; this castle, now in ruins, was the place
where Richard Coeur de Lion was confined. The walls only of the castle and
part of the chapel are all that remain; we did not fail to visit a place of
such celebrity. A convent lies below it.
We brought to the night at a large village where there is an excellent inn;
and the next day, the Leopoldsberg, bursting forth to view, announced to us
the approach to Vienna. We anchored at Nussdorf, where there is a Custom
house, and from whence the distance to Vienna is about one and half mile
English. After having my trunk examined, I hired a hackney coach and drove
into Vienna. The barriers beyond the suburb are called _Lines_, and between
the Suburbs and the old town is an Esplanade. We entered the Suburbs by the
_Waehringer Linie_, and the old town by the _Rothes Thor_ (Red gate); and
from thence I repaired to the inn _Zum weissen Wolf_ (white Wolf) in the
_Altem Fleischmarkt_ (old meat-market).
VIENNA, Augt. 4.
The old town of Vienna is not ve
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