gulches,
and fern-clad hills sparkling with streamlets. The dawn was lovely in
its aspect, fresh and sweet. A gentle land-breeze brought us the dewy
fragrance of the flowers which had been distilled from a wilderness of
bloom during the tropical night. The uncertain light melted slowly away
as a dainty flush appeared in the east. A few transparent clouds hung
over the verdant isle, clouds so fleecy and ermine-like that they might
have been the mantles of angels. It was entrancing thus to be gliding
noiselessly over a perfectly calm sea, with so many attendant elements
of beauty. We stood quite alone in the bow of the ship, wondering how
the passengers below could court the thrall of sleep at such a moment.

As we drew nearer and nearer to the shore, sugar plantations, cocoanut
groves, and verdant pastures came clearly into view, dotted here and
there with the low primitive dwellings of the natives, and occasionally
ornamented by the picturesque, vine-covered cottages of American and
European residents. As the city of Honolulu was approached, it seemed to
be half buried in a cloud of luxuriant foliage. Blessed with frequent
rains, drought is not known here, and the verdure is perennial.

The sudden change of the color of the ocean was very noticeable as we
steamed at half speed through a narrow gap of the coral reef which forms
a natural breakwater to the harbor. We passed the light-house which
stands on the inner edge of the reef,--a structure not over thirty feet
in height, consequently not visible from a ship's deck more than ten
miles away. The captain informed us that it was the only light between
this island and the coast of New Zealand, in the far South Pacific. The
channel through the reef to safe anchorage is carefully buoyed on either
side, and at night a safety-lantern is placed upon each of these little
floating beacons, so that a steamer can easily steer her course in
safety, come when she may.

Though the volcanic origin of the land is plain, it is not the sole
cause of these reefs and islands appearing thus in mid-ocean. Upon the
flanks of the upheaval the coral insect with tireless industry rears its
amazing structure, until it reaches the surface of the waves as a reef,
more or less contiguous to the shore, and to which ages finally serve to
join it. The tiny creature delegated by Providence to build these reefs
dies on exposure to air,--its work being then done. The far-reaching
antiquity of the isla