ier which has been erected to enable one to
approach the verge of the cliff in safety. This narrow opening forms the
gate through which Honolulu gets its daily taste of the refreshing
trade-winds.
In ascending this beautiful valley one is constantly charmed by the
discovery of new tropical trees, luxurious creepers, and lovely
wild-flowers. The strangers' burial-ground is passed just after crossing
the Nuuanu stream, and close at hand is the Royal Mausoleum,--a stone
structure in Gothic style, which contains the remains of all the
Hawaiian kings, as well as those of many of the high chiefs who have
died since the conquest. Some shaded bathing-pools are formed by the
mountain streams lying half hidden in the dense foliage. Here one also
passes the residence of ex-Queen Emma, widow of the late king,
pleasantly located and flower-embowered, having within its grounds some
notable examples of fine tropical trees from other lands. Its mistress
was educated in England, and has here surrounded herself with many
European comforts and elegancies. She may be seen almost daily driving
out in a pony-carriage, to which a nice pair of showy though small
island-bred horses are attached.
This valley is classic ground in the history of these islands, being the
spot where the fierce and conquering invader, King Kamehameha I., fought
his last decisive battle, the result of which confirmed him as sole
monarch of the Hawaiian group. Here the natives of Oahu made their final
stand, and fought desperately, resisting with clubs and spears the
savage hordes led by Kamehameha. But they were defeated at last, and
with their king, Kaiana, who led them in person, were driven over the
abrupt and fatal cliff by hundreds, bravely ending the struggle for
liberty with the sacrifice of their lives. The half-caste guide tells
the stranger of this battle and its issue with a sad air and earnestness
of feeling not akin to the humdrum stories of European guides, who
recite their lesson by rote, like parrots.
No person should land at Honolulu and go away without visiting the Pali.
It can easily be accomplished in three or four hours by vehicle, or if
one is pressed for time it can be done more quickly, and to the author's
mind much more agreeably, on horseback. In our eagerness to see and
enjoy every aspect of the valley, breakfast had been forgotten, and it
was already high noon, so that a preparation of wild bananas, bruised
into a paste and stewed in
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