we had not before supposed that a light under any circumstances
could be made out at such a distance on the sea. Hornby Light occupies
one of the most important headlands on the entire coast of Australia,
and great care is taken to maintain its efficiency.

After a sea-voyage of nearly a month's duration, the sight of land was
indeed welcome. One could not but feel a burning impatience once more to
tread the solid earth. This was no isolated volcanic island lying half
submerged amid a broad expanse of turbulent seas; it was literally
_terra firma_, the visible portion of a whole continent. A steamer of
two or three hundred tons brings the pilot off the shore in these vexed
and boisterous seas. The struggle to board us was one requiring coolness
and courage, nor was it accomplished without considerable risk.

Six hours after sighting the distant light of Sydney Heads we were
running in between the two bold, frowning, giant cliffs which form the
entrance of this remarkable harbor. The ship was on half speed. Botany
Bay was passed,--a now lovely retreat, retaining nothing of its
ill-repute but the name. It is seven miles below the capital, and now
forms a pleasure resort for the citizens of Sydney. Wooloomaloo Bay,
McQuade's Point, Garden Island, and the forts were passed one after the
other, as we slowly forged ahead through the channel. Some surprise was
felt at the indifferent nature of the visible defences of Sydney harbor,
assuming that defensive means are required at all; but it seems that
there are torpedoes, booms, and submarine appliances all ready to be
sunk should such defences be called for by any hostile demonstration.

To eyes weary of the monotony of the sea the aspect of the famous harbor
with its lake-like expanse, its many green islands with handsome
residences scattered over them, its graceful promontories and the
abundance of semi-tropical vegetation, all together formed one of the
loveliest pictures imaginable, heightened as these attractive
surroundings were by the dewy freshness and glow of the early morning
sun.

The wharf at which we landed was not in the busiest maritime district,
but seemed to be situated in the centre of the town as it were, our tall
masts taking their place among the multitude of church spires and
weather-vanes which crowd together here. The usual custom-house
ceremonies were encountered, which in this instance were not of an
annoying character, and we soon began to realize