he
centre for putting over the head, and which hanging down back and front
partially covers the otherwise exposed bosom. About the loins they wear
a breech-cloth like the men, and sometimes a short skirt reaching
half-way to the knees. We were told that the women are fond, on all
gala occasions, of painting their faces with any pigment that is
obtainable. Our observation of both sexes was obtained chiefly as they
came off in their boats to the ship, which they always do in scores; and
those we saw were nearly in a state of nature. The yellow and abundant
hair of the men must be colored by some process known only to
themselves; for though they wear nothing to protect their heads, the sun
could not so bleach it. At one time our decks were crowded with these
savages, offering for sale curious shells, fruits, native-made
ornaments, especially necklaces formed of a dried scarlet berry.

Apia, the capital town of Upolu and the metropolis of the group,
presents an inviting prospect from the sea, and the whole island in its
general conformation is the most notable of them all. The foot-hills lie
quite back from the shore, rising one green elevation behind another,
until the great central mountain range is reached, which has an
elevation of some four thousand feet above the level of the surrounding
waters. All of these hills and the top of the highest elevation are
clothed in ever green vegetation, flanked here and there by exposed and
abrupt cliffs, bare, rugged, and grand, standing like giant sentinels
defying the power of the elements. In the distance, upon a mountain
side, is seen a thin silver thread, sparkling in the sun's rays,
stretching downward from the heights, which we were told would prove to
be a clear, never-failing cascade of water could we approach near enough
to discover its real character. It forms the source of a small river,
which courses its way to the sea. Many a ship comes hither and anchors,
to fill her water-casks from this crystal spring. The town, including
its two meeting houses and many European cottages, was half-hidden by
the trees, while the water between the ship and the shore was alive with
small native boats full of naked islanders, men and women, ready to sell
carved clubs, spears, and canes of native wood.

Of the many boats that came off to meet our ship two contained some
remarkable swimmers and divers. The most expert among them all was a
young woman, who by her rapid movements in the wa