the Goodwins, nearly all their
crews perishing. As we look out over them from the low shores at Deal
and Walmer below Sandwich, or the chalk-cliffs of Dover beyond, a fringe
of breakers marks their line, while nearer the coast merchant-ships at
anchor usually crowd the Downs. In Walmer Castle was the official
residence of the lord warden of the Cinque Ports, an office that is soon
to be abolished, and which many famous men have held. Here lived Pitt,
and here died the Duke of Wellington, closing his great career.

DOVER.

Beyond, the coast rises up from the low sandy level, and rounding the
South Foreland, on which is a fine electric lighthouse of modern
construction, we come to the chalk-cliffs, on top of which are the dark
towers of Dover Castle, from whose battlements the road descends to the
town along the water's edge and in the valley of the little stream that
gives the place its name--the Dour, which the Celts called the Dwr or
"water," and the Romans the Dubrae. The great keep of Dover dates from
William Rufus's reign, and is one of the many badges left in England of
the Norman Conquest. There are earthworks at Dover, however, of much
earlier origin, built for protection by the Celts and Romans, and
forming part of the chain that guarded this celebrated coast, of which
Dover, being at the narrowest part of the strait, was considered the
key. But no such Norman castle rises elsewhere on these shores. "It was
built by evil spirits," writes a Bohemian traveller in the fifteenth
century, "and is so strong that in no other part of Christendom can
anything be found like it." The northern turret on the keep rises four
hundred and sixty-eight feet above the sea at the base of the hill, and
from it can be had a complete observation of both the English and French
coasts for many miles. Within the castle is the ancient Pharos, or
watch-tower, a Roman work. Over upon the opposite side of the harbor is
Shakespeare's Cliff,

"----whose high and bending head
Looks fearfully on the confined deep."

[Illustration: THE PHAROS, DOVER CASTLE.]

There is no more impressive view in England than that from the Castle
Hill of Dover, with the green fields and white chalk headlands
stretching far away on either hand fringed by the breakers, the hills
and harbors faintly seen across the strait in France, and the busy town
of Dover lying at the foot of the cliff. This is half watering-place and
half port of transit to the opposi