eping waters of the Gulf the appearance of a
lake; and as we approached the shores of Helsingfors, the illusion was
heightened by innumerable little islands, clothed with verdant slopes
of grass and groves of pine. The harbor of Helsingfors derives a
peculiar interest from its system of fortifications. Nature seems to
have done much to render it impregnable; and what Nature has not done
has been accomplished by the military genius of the Russians. Immense
masses of rock rise from the water in every direction, leaving deep
narrow passages between for vessels. Every rock is a fortress. The
steamer passed through a perfect maze of fortifications. Guns bore
upon us from all sides--out of the forts, out of holes in the
rocks--in short, out of every conceivable nook and crevice in the bay.
The very rocks seemed to be alive with sentinels and to bustle with
armories. Probably there is no part of the Russian dominions, except
Cronstadt, more thoroughly fortified than Sweaborg. The system of
engineering displayed upon this point evinces the highest order of
military genius. The fortifications embrace a series of forts,
castles, barracks, and military establishments of various kinds,
situated on seven islands of solid rock, forming the different
channels of approach to the harbor. Count Ehrensuerd, Field-marshal
of Sweden, is entitled to the credit of having devised the original
system of fortifications, afterward so successfully carried out by the
Czars of Russia. This was the last rallying-point of the Swedes during
the war with Russia. In 1808, Admiral Cronstadt, the commander of the
Swedish forces, who had hitherto proved himself a brave and patriotic
officer, submitted to terms of capitulation and delivered over the
forts to the Russians. History scarcely furnishes a parallel to such a
wanton and unaccountable act of treachery. Cronstadt had fifteen
hundred men, two frigates, and all the munitions of war to hold his
position against any force that could be brought against him; while
the Russians were reduced to great extremities, and, it is said, had
scarcely force enough left to man the forts after they were evacuated
by the Swedes. Sufficient testimony has been gathered by historians to
show that Cronstadt bartered his honor for money; yet, strange to say,
such is the high estimation in which he was originally held by the
Swedes, that many of them to this day profess to disbelieve that he
was capable of such an infamous cri