leeves tight from shoulder to elbow,
falling loosely to the wrist where they were often finished with turned
back cuffs. The farthingale gave way to the skirt, open from waist to
hem in front, to show an elaborate petticoat. Both skirts were short
enough to expose the instep and rosette or buckle on the shoe. The women
forsook the caps formerly in vogue and adopted also the stiff beaver
hats with feathers.

[Illustration: Photo by Thomas L. Williams through courtesy of the
Jamestown Corporation, Inc.

A Gay Mood

A young girl displays a seventeenth-century costume with full skirt,
cylindrical bodice and falling band (large loose collar).]

With the coming of Charles I to the throne, decorative features were
added to the fashions. Colored ribbons, displayed in bunches at the
knees, on doublets and as ties to hold back flowing locks, came into
vogue along with flaring boots elaborately trimmed on the inner side of
the flare, which was turned back. The women's costumes also underwent
similar elaborations. Gloves appeared, also muffs, and the long circular
cape was used as a wrap.

The severity of the regime, as established under the Commonwealth, 1649,
was reflected in the dress of both men and women when all finery was
discarded. Fabrics became somber in color and unpretentious in texture.
Men had their locks shorn close to the head, and women returned to the
simple caps or hoods, which held the hair close to the head. Virginia
authorities took cognizance of England's turn towards simplicity in
dress, and enacted a law prohibiting the introduction of clothing
containing silk, or of silk goods in pieces, except for scarfs, silver
and gold lace or ribbons interwoven with silver or gold. The law further
provided for confiscation of silk articles brought into the colony
against the law.

[Illustration: Photo by Thomas L. Williams through courtesy of the
Jamestown Corporation, Inc.

A Virginia artisan, in the costume of the early seventeenth century,
views a woodland scene in the Jamestown area.]

After ten years of this severity in dress, the populace in Virginia was
ready for the change, which Charles II brought to England with his
restoration as monarch. Having spent his exile in France at the
brilliant court of Louis XIV, he brought with him, on his return to
England, fashions which the colonials sought to adopt, although they
were restricted somewhat because of the limited importations of silks
and satins, elab