f
grain about a third the size of a small pea. Ghafouley is called _koula_
in Soudanese. The Aheer cheese has appeared for the first time amongst
us to-day. It is made in little squares, three by two inches broad, and
a quarter of an inch thick. It is eaten fresh, but has a poor flavour.
The people prefer pounding it into dust when dry, and drinking it with
ghaseb-water, which is white as milk, and very cool. The paste thus made
is very white, and becomes as hard as a stone when dry. I have also made
acquaintance with _doua doua_, round black balls of a vegetable
composition, eaten with various dishes as seasoning. It is very abundant
in Soudan. There is also a species of ghaseb-paste, called
_d[=a]bo[)a]_, not unlike macaroni in very small pieces. This is very
much esteemed. It swells exceedingly when boiled, like paste. We begin
to get into regions where the preparation of food is greatly changing.
Yesterday my servants purchased me a fowl, and I learned for the first
time that this delicacy was to be procured.

I have studied but little since I left Tripoli. Our affairs have always
been worse and worse, and we have had a continual battle to preserve our
existence. Such is the beginning of this expedition: God only knows what
may be its _end_. There is left for us but a firm reliance in His
goodness and protecting providence.

_16th._--This was a warm, hazy day, and we were troubled with
considerable languor. I have slept but little these three nights, and
feel somewhat indisposed for want of rest. I read a good deal of
Clapperton's "Journey to Sakkatou," besides beginning a vocabulary of
the Kailouee language, with the assistance of Mokhlah Bou Yeldee, who is
a very clever young man. He gets his living by writing charms, and sells
a good number for the cure of disease. People pour water on the ink or
writing of the charm, and then drink the magic liquid. The remedy is
doubtless as effectual as many patent medicines in Europe. As is well
known, this superstition of drinking the Koran is of old date.

En-Noor sent a message this morning by the slave of Makersee, that we
were not to say a single word to any one, not even to our servants,
about the money, or its amount, which we have paid him for our escort to
Zinder. He says, "If the people hear of this money, they will all come
down upon me for a portion; and if I do not comply with their wishes
they will abandon us, and not go with us to Zinder, and I want as many