at they
explored, and, no doubt, shall find that little has changed in the
manners of the people during these last thirty years. Neither in the
Desert nor in the kingdoms of Central Africa is there any march of
civilisation. All goes on according to a certain routine established for
ages past.

A courier has just arrived from the new Sultan of Aghadez, demanding the
gumruk, or custom-dues, from the caravan of Christians who have entered
Aheer. As if we had not already paid enough! After two or three weeks of
incessant solicitation, by the way, I gave Es-Sfaxee, Yusuf, and
Mahommed, a small bottle of rum--the first, and it shall be the last;
for they got drunk and quarrelsome upon it.

_19th._--This day I took a walk over the neighbouring rocks, whence
there is a wide view over the whole surrounding valley. I have omitted
to observe, that at our former place of encampment were seen many
scorpions; so that here these reptiles inhabit the open country equally
with the ruins of old houses or mosques, and such places. Under one of
my boxes was also discovered a lefa, the most dangerous species of
serpent in these countries.

It appears that most of the caravans that pass through this country are
obliged to pay a certain gumruk to the prince of Aghadez. The relations
of the lesser Sheikhs of Aheer with the paramount sultan are of this
kind. When a sultan dies, or is displaced, they assemble like the
College of Cardinals, or rather like the old Polish nobility, to elect a
new one. It is the law that this Sultan of Aghadez must be a stranger.
When once chosen he is invested with something like absolute authority
throughout all Aheer, and he alone possesses the dreaded power of
"cutting off heads." En Noor has sent this morning what is called "the
present, of salutation," which he determined to despatch to
Abd-el-Kader, the new Sultan of Aghadez, instead of the immense gumruk
demanded. The present consists of one Egyptian mattrass; two white
turbans with red borders; a piece of white muslin for making light
turbans; two shasheeahs, or red caps; two small gilt-framed
looking-glasses; and a few beads of glass and earthen composition; one
pound of _jouee_, or perfume for burning; a small packet of _simbel_, an
aromatic herb used for washing the body; and two heads of white sugar.
This composed what may be called the official present for the district
of Tintalous. En-Noor added, from himself, two camels, a piece of silk
for a go