e evening I was obliged to make
presents to the whole of them. They have certainly worked hard for us,
and suffered much anxiety on our account.
Our course this day lay towards the mountains of Tidek, which form our
southern horizon. The country was a perfect desert. There was nothing
now to tell that we were near Soudan, except perhaps a few tholukh-trees
of gigantic stature. We did not halt upon the track, but, turning aside,
sought a fine valley, where there was abundance of hasheesh. Our camels
greedily devour the luxuriant _bou rekaba_.
_26th._--As usual, the caravan was got into marching order before
daybreak, and returning to the track we proceeded rapidly. Dawn revealed
to us that we were still watched by the hostile population. Three men,
mounted on maharees, trotted along the hills, evidently in observation.
We soon got out of the desert country, and entered the fine wady of
Kaltadak, rich with tropical vegetation. The huge tholukhs were covered
with a multitude of parasitical plants, that hung in festoons or trailed
down towards the earth. This valley runs winding round about the group
of Tidek mountains, which have long been in view. They say that it
abounds in lions, and as we advanced we looked down the long glades that
opened on either hand, expecting to see some monarch of the forest
stopping to gaze at us as we passed. We discovered, however, only three
black ostriches moving slowly along in the distance,--the first I have
seen wild in Africa. They appeared like dark moving lumps, the heads and
necks not being discernible to the naked eye. Our people did not attempt
to chase them; and the gazelles that glanced near at hand were likewise
suffered to depart in peace. At noon we reached the well of Anamghur,
where we drank some good water. It was scooped out of the sandy, rocky
bed of the wady. A group of five asses had been driven down to it to
drink.
As we advanced, about noon, a small group appeared ahead. A person of
consequence from Seloufeeat, known to our escort, was coming to meet us.
He advanced cordially, and told us that he had determined to be our
protection. We were sorry that any such aid was necessary; but it
appeared from his report that there were more people collecting to
attack the Christians, and get a share of their spoils. In the evening
we encamped in an open space clear of the trees, where we could see all
around us, and use our arms if necessary. Scarcely were we established
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