pulpit painted, which stood in the centre. Outside on a raised platform
was a very large tom-tom or drum, upon which a native played from
morning to night, much to our annoyance, as it was so close to us.
Religious worship appears at a very low ebb at Bruni, for during the
whole time that we remained there I did not see one person enter the
mosque.

At the back of the mosque there was a piece of green sward, which
separated us from the royal buildings. Passing through the mosque we
strolled over this piece of pasture, when, close to the water's edge, we
discovered several fine old brass 32-pounders, dismounted and
half-buried in the swamp. On inspection we found them to be Spanish,
bearing the inscription of Carolus Tertius, Rex Hispaniorum, with the
arms of Castile above. How they came into the sultan's possession we
could not find out. He was said to value them exceedingly; if so, he did
not show it by the neglect paid to them.

Bruni on a calm day presents a novel and pretty appearance. The masses
of houses appear to float on the water, and the uniformity is broken by
gay flags and banners, which indicate the rank and the office of them
who hoist them. The large square sails of the prahus, the variety of
boats and canoes, the floating bazaar, and the numerous costumes
continually in moving panorama before you, all combine to form a very
admirable picture. Add to this the chiming and beating of gongs and
tom-toms in every cadence, and from every quarter, and you are somewhat
reminded of an Asiatic Bartholomew fair.

The right-hand side of the river, which is opposite to the town,
consists of a series of small hills, which are partially cleared, but
present little appearance of cultivation. Here we were shown a specimen
of the upas tree: it was growing close to a small stone fountain in the
vicinity of some straggling huts. It was a solitary tree, tall and
red-stemmed, with the foliage branching out in a canopy at the top.

So much has been said for and against this tree, usually supposed to be
fabulous, that we looked upon it with great curiosity; and although
aware that its noxious qualities have been much exaggerated, we were
anxious to test its powers, if we could. We procured a ladder, which we
raised against the tree, and one of our party ascended to the uppermost
branches without experiencing the fainting sensation ascribed to be
produced by close contact with its foliage. We then tapped the tree at
the bo