, from the anchorage, has not an inviting appearance. I have said
that the land upon which it is built is very low, and as the town is
strongly fortified, nothing is to be seen from the shipping but a long
line of sea wall, with the roofs of the largest buildings, and a mass of
brick, which we were told was the cathedral, overtopping it. At one end
of this sea wall is the canal, or river, flanked on one side by a mole,
and on the other by a light-house.

Manilla is, however, a very delightful place; and to us, who had been so
many months among savages, it appeared a Paradise. The canal I have
alluded to divides the fortified city from the suburban towns of San
Fernando, San Gabriel, and others, in which are situated all the
commercial houses, stores, godowns, dock-yards, and saw mills. All the
Chinese and lower orders also reside in these suburbs, and I may add
that all the amusements, feasts, &c., are carried on in this quarter.
The city of Manilla within the fortifications is a very quiet, clean,
and well-regulated town, inhabited entirely by the higher orders: the
streets are well laid out, the houses regular, and built of white
freestone. In the centre of the city is the Plaza, on one side of which
is the cathedral, and opposite it the governor's palace; both very
insignificant buildings. The cathedral, which is very ancient, is devoid
of all attempt at architecture, and resembles a huge barn; while the
governor's palace, in appearance, reminds you of a stable.

[Illustration: CITY OF MANILLA.]

During the day the streets of Manilla are perfectly quiet and deserted.
At dusk the people begin to move, and show signs of life. The sallyport
gates are closed at eleven o'clock at night, after which hour there is
neither ingress or egress, and on this point they are most absurdly
particular.

The natives of Luzon are much below the middle size. The men are
slightly made, weak, and inoffensive; the women, on the contrary, are
remarkable for their pretty faces, feet, and figures, set off by a dress
of the most picturesque description: a short petticoat, of
gaily-coloured silk or cotton, and a boddice of similar material, of
sufficient height to cover the bosom, is their usual costume. Their long
jet black hair is allowed to fall in tresses down their backs. Many have
a kerchief tastefully thrown over their heads; and they wear little
velvet slippers, embroidered with gold and silver thread. Their
appearance is extremely