of the ladies. All was gaiety and gladness; on every side
was to be heard the merry laugh and hail of recognition. To add to the
excitement, the bands of the several regiments played the most popular
airs on a parade adjoining to the esplanade.

While the carriages were driving up and down, the vesper bell tolled
from the cathedral. In an instant every carriage stopped--every head was
uncovered, and bent in an attitude of devotion. Horses, women, men--all
as if transfixed: every tongue silent--nothing heard but the bell of the
cathedral, and the light breeze which bore away its vibrations. The
bell at last ceased, and in a moment every thing was in full activity as
before.

Twice a week a military band plays at the public almeda from nine till
ten in the evening; and on one of these nights we started in a carriage
to the spot. The almeda is situated close to the gates of the city, and
joins to the esplanade. It is an open square, bordered with a row of
trees, to which are suspended lamps; while in the spaces between the
trees there are seats for the accommodation of the public. In the middle
of the almeda is a stand erected for the musicians. On our arrival there
we found it well lighted up; the place was surrounded by carriages,
which were empty, their occupants having joined the parade. Following
the example, we mixed with the throng, which was numerous. The women
were mostly collected in groups, and the men were smoking their cheroots
and beating time to the music, which was excellent. Lighting our cigars,
we strolled lazily along, and, by dint of lamp-light and impudence,
managed to form a very tolerable idea of the beauty of the senoras. At
ten o'clock, the band struck up a lively polka, which was the signal for
a general dispersion. This is considered one of the principal and most
favourite recreations at Manilla.

The inhabitants of Manilla are composed of the pure Spaniard, and the
Mustichas, or mixed breed. The former are very proud and inhospitable;
the latter are, on the contrary, very friendly, and, for any little
civility, request that you will make their house your home. The women of
the latter are by far the most preferable: the former are said to be
very deficient in good-breeding and education; like the Indians, they
sleep half the day, and are scarcely alive till sun-down, when they
dress for the almeda or esplanade.

There are very good subscription rooms in the city. Every month they
give a ball