c and wild fowls cannot by any common
process be prevented from shriveling and discoloring while drying, but
when dry they may be restored by careful modeling in colored wax. This
is applied warm with a brush and given its final finish with hot metal
modeling tools. For museum work and other high grade work such heads are
cast entire in wax in such a way that all feathers and hair are attached
in their precise places.

Large water fowl are often mounted as flying, and suspended by a very
fine wire. A sharpened wire with a ring turned in one end, thrust into
the middle of the back and clinched in the body, forms a secure point of
suspension.

As it is not usually practicable to case many specimens of large birds,
give them an extra thorough poisoning and when entirely finished spray
with either corrosive sublimate or arsenical solution.

In making bodies for large birds it is well to use excelsior for the
main bulk of the body, merely covering the outside with a thin layer of
tow. This is not only more economical but makes a lighter specimen than
one filled with tow entirely. Excelsior or wood wool is to be had in
varying degrees of fineness of upholstery dealers.

[Illustration: SPREAD EAGLE. WINGS BRACED UP TO DRY.]

In the case of a bird which has been wired and sewn up seeming to
require further filling out, it can be accomplished in most cases by
making an incision under each wing and introducing some flakes of tow
with a wire stuffing tool. If the bird is mounted with closed wings this
slit need not even be sewed up as the folded wing covers it completely.

CHAPTER XI.

TANNING, CLEANING AND POISONING SKINS.

I have used the following method for some years successfully on skins up
to and including the deer in size. Most larger skins need thinning with
a special tool, though an experienced hand can manage to thin a heavy
hide with a common draw knife.

An empty lard tub, a half barrel or a large earthenware jar to hold the
tan liquor, a fleshing knife and a fleshing beam are necessary to begin
with at least. Any smith can make a knife of an old, large file or rasp
by working both sides to a blunt edge and drawing the upper end out in a
tang for another handle. A piece of old scythe blade with cloth wrapped
around the ends will do, or a dull draw knife, either. One blade filed
into fine teeth will be useful in removing the inner or muscular skin.

[Illustration: FLESHING KNIFE. (Made from old rasp)