are screwed up
tightly from below.

Our frame now stands alone and rigid and should be viewed from all sides
to correct any errors. It should not be too high, front or rear, and
also having the back-board perfectly vertical or plumb. Insert two
pieces of rod in the opening at the back of the skull and fasten them
there by mixing enough plaster of paris and water to fill the cavity, to
the consistency of molasses and pouring it in around them.

The ends of the rods should be bent or roughened to prevent them
slipping out after the plaster has set. A surplus of plaster can be
placed around the articulation of the jaws, at the same time holding
them in place. These neck rods are to run beside and be fastened to the
back-board as the legs were.

Let one remain straight and fasten it loosely so it may be drawn in and
out the loops until the proper length of neck is formed, then tighten
them and fasten the other rod also. Before fastening these try the skin
over the frame, making sure it will cover in all directions. A tail wire
stapled to the top of the back-board completes the frame.

[Illustration: BOLTING LEG RODS TO STAND.]

If two good sized rectangular holes are cut in the back-board just in
front of the hind legs and behind the shoulders they will be useful
later in shaping the body by sewing back and forth with a mattress
needle and cord. Drive a row of lath nails into the top and bottom edges
of the back-board about half their length at 2 inch intervals. They will
enable you to build up first one side, then the other of the body by
winding down excelsior with wrapping cord. These nails are driven fully
in when the winding is finished.

The limbs also are built up by using the same material. Do not build up
any part to a perfect fit yet, however, as we must leave room for a
shell of paper 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Depressions in body and limbs are
reproduced by sewing from side to side or drawing down with nails.

The neck and skull are built up in much the same way and the skin
fitting loosely, the manikin is surfaced up with a coat of soft
modelling clay well rubbed in with a small trowel. The paper coating is
to be applied while the clay is still damp so a large specimen must be
partly covered with a damp cloth to prevent it drying out prematurely.

The paper for this purpose should be of some soft easily pulped variety;
common building paper is good and may be torn in pieces of various size,
soaked in water