to size wanted; (B) Moose, caribou, deer; (K) Round shield;
(E) Bear shield; (Q) Combination--head and feet.]

[Illustration: SHIELDS, FOOT AND HALL RACK.

(C) and (D) Deer Shields (J) Four Feet Rack (V) Hall Rack]

[Illustration: GUN RACK, FISH AND GAME PANELS, HALL RACK.

(I) Gun rack (F) Fish panel (H) Shield, combination head and feet (S)
Hall Rack, small.]

[Illustration: SOME SHIELDS AND PANELS.

(M) Shield with carving (G) Panel for game, x, y, z, aa, bb Deer foot
thermometers (L) Deer foot thermometer and small animal panel.]

Some of the sizes most used are approximately as follows for mounted
heads:

For moose, elk, caribou.
20x30 inches.

For deer, goat or sheep.
12x18 or 16x21.

For fox or lynx.
8x10 inches.

For bear or wolf.
12x15

For birds, small fur-bearers and fish.
6x8 in.

Oval panels for mounting fish.
9x22 15x40

For dead game.
10x15 14x24 17x25

For mounting horns of elk and moose the size for deer heads will answer
nicely, while deer antlers are suitable with a shield of the fox head
size.

In order to draw a symmetrical pattern for the woodworker, take a piece
of stiff paper of the right length and width, fold it down the middle,
draw one half to suit and cut out with shears. The style of moulding
called Ogee is to be preferred. A simple diamond, heart, or oval shape
can be made at home with beveled or rounded edges, or if your tools
include a turning saw (which is most useful for a variety of purposes)
you may try a more pretentious shield. To achieve this, make your
pattern as just described and after marking it on a piece of wood from
3/8 to 7/8 inch thick, cut out with the turning saw. It should be held
in the vise for this operation. Place this cut out shield (1) on a piece
of board of similar thickness but somewhat larger and with a pair of
compasses mark out another 1/2 in. or so larger all around. (2) Also
mark the same distance inside the edge.

[Illustration: HOME MADE SHIELD.]

With a wood worker's gauge or something similar make a mark around them
both near the lower sides. Now with draw shave and rasp work the edges
off both Nos. 1 and 2. No. 1 on a bevel, No. 2 rounded. There should be
a number of holes drilled and countersunk in No. 2, from the back, and
when the two parts of the shield are properly adjusted they should be
drawn closely together with screws too short to