charming, the band was playing, but there were not many people when
we were there. Statues, statues everywhere. What would Rome be
without statues? From the summit of the Pincio we looked at the dome
of St. Peter and also the whole city. I am glad to find it is not
over large, it will be easier to know.

On the drive we were amused to meet the S----'s, A----, and P---- of
Rome. The sun did not appear, and the weather was dull and dreary.

On arriving in Rome, I had no artistic feeling. It is Rome that
opened my mind, so I have worshipped her since. I don't want to
visit anything before we are settled. The evening was spent in
consulting the cards and in writing letters.

This stay in Rome seems an exile and it is with unequalled joy that
I think of returning to Nice. The cards predict much good, but can
the cards be believed?

Ah! if I could marry some prince! Then I would return to Nice and
make a triumphal entry. But no, it is indicated that nothing will
succeed for me; so I shall make no more plans or, if I do, it will
be with the sorrowful conviction of their uselessness. Each time I
have been disappointed.

Wednesday, January 5th, 1876.

This is what I wrote to the General:

"I am in Rome, and it is very wonderful (ah! it is very wonderful,
very marvellous). It is cold as Russia, the water freezes in the
fountains, but the cold would be nothing if it was _only_ the cold.
Since morning we have been in search of an apartment, and we have
seen only one. I did not have courage to go up when they pointed out
a black, yawning hole, dirty and frightful. I have looked in vain
for a house with any resemblance to the French houses. I find only
ruins or cracked columns. No doubt it is very beautiful, but agree
with me that a good, comfortable apartment is infinitely more
pleasant, though less artistic.

"I believe we shall end by lodging in the baths of Caracalla or in
the Coliseum. The foreigners will take me for the ghost of a
Christian martyr, devoured by some fierce tiger in the presence of
some carnivorous emperor. As to the furniture, we will be content
with fragments of statues or a few bones, the sublime remains of a
henceforth impossible past. After my installation in the Coliseum,
or in the Forum, I will give you the most minute details concerning
the Eternal City. Meanwhile, I shall expect a letter from you, my
dear General, which will be, I know, kind and charming. Now good-bye
until we meet again.