or make, and not
presenting a single line or contour upon which they could look with
pleasure. They might not be much gratified by learning the superior
economy of modern fashions: they might say that, putting rich materials
and delicate hues aside, it is possible to contrive a picturesque dress
out of the most simple fabrics. Beauty and expense are by no means of
necessity associated in dress. When Oliver Goldsmith, after spending
more than would pay a modern gentleman's tailor's bill for a couple of
years, upon a single coat of cherry-colored velvet, had the misfortune
to stain it in a conspicuous place, he was obliged to go on wearing it,
and always to hold his hat (in this instance of some use) before the
fatal grease-spot. He could not afford to have another new coat, and yet
this expensive and unfortunate piece of finery was every bit as ugly, if
not more so, than the plain black or invisible-green cloth coat of this
age. The long shoes, pointed toes, and other grotesque fashions of the
middle ages, must all of them have been expensive; and it was by
inefficient sumptuary laws that it was attempted to put them down. The
draperies which we admire on an Etruscan vase were of the coarsest
woollen: and the possession of silken stuffs in abundance has not tended
to make the Chinese national dress better than what we know it to be.

Of coats, the frock is better than the evening or dress-coat. It fulfils
the purpose of a garment more completely, and when buttoned up is
capable of protecting the chest. The triangular opening in front of the
coat and waistcoat is, however, an absurdity. It leaves unprotected from
cold and wet the very part which most requires protection. Pictorially,
the regularly-defined patch of white seen through it is always
offensive; but its whiteness has one merit, if it really be white. The
exposure of part of the linen worn under the tailor's portion of the
man's dress makes attention to its condition necessary; and perhaps has
contributed to the greater personal cleanliness which obtains among a
coat-wearing than among a blouse-wearing population. Cleanliness is very
truly reputed to be next to godliness, and it may be worth while making
some sacrifice of convenience and taste for the sake of it: it belongs
to morals rather than to aesthetics, and should accordingly take
precedence of any thing appertaining only to the latter.

The tail or dress coat is evidently derived from the frock, or from