grocer of the Rue St. Denis in a shawl
dressing-gown. On grand occasions the appearance of the Schah must be
still more incongruous, if we are to believe the description which the
author gives of the state dress preserved in the royal treasury. One can
scarcely fancy a gouty Centre of the World attired in a European uniform
of _blue cloth_, with the facings embroidered in diamonds, ruby buttons,
and epaulets formed of immense emeralds, to which are attached fringes
of large pearls. We translate a description of a last sitting, and of
the exchange of courtesies between the royal model and the amateur
artist; it may serve to reconcile some of our readers to the rather
monotonous form in which royal munificence is usually displayed in
European courts. When compared to a lame horse, a gold snuff-box
appears--if not an ingenious--at least a convenient present:

"On the 31st of January I went for the last time to the Palace to take
leave of the Schah, and make another portrait of him.... He proposed at
first to sit for his profile, but as I objected on the score of its
being less interesting:--'Well, well, he said, 'as you wish; you
understand the thing better than I do.' He then resumed his conversation
with the courtiers, who were ranged in a row at the other end of the
room,--sounding my praises in Turkish in the most exaggerated terms,
according to the rules of Persian politeness, and remarking among other
things how difficult it was to catch an exact likeness so
quickly--doubtless to set me at my ease, for he saw I was hurrying in my
task. To all these remarks the courtiers merely replied: '_Beli_,
_beli_, yes, yes,' in a monotonous and inexpressive tone. The Schah
seemed much surprised to learn that I was to leave Teheran the following
day. He inquired what motive induced me to leave Persia so soon. I
replied, that I was eager to join my family and friends, to inform them
of the favors I had received at the hands of His Majesty. For these
latter words the interpreter substituted the words 'Centre of the
World.' I added, that I intended returning to Teheran with my brother in
the course of the following year, at which the Prince of course appeared
delighted--'Return soon,' he said, 'you will always be welcome at my
court.' Then turning to Mirza-Massoud, his Minister for Foreign Affairs,
who had accompanied me:--I have known many Franks,' he remarked, 'but
none who pleased me as much as this one.' This phrase, it must be s