m
the middle of the cluster.

[Illustration: FIG. 59. ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH. WRONG SIDE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 60. ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH. RIGHT SIDE.]

ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH (figs. 61 and 62).--These show, the right and
wrong sides of the hem; here the rolled hem is prepared as above, but
the stitches are worked from right to left, and the thread is carried
round the little roll, so that, as shown in fig. 62, it is visible on
both sides of the hem. The needle does not enter the stuff, but is
carried back at once, from the outside, and put in again between two
clusters of threads.

[Illustration: FIG. 61.--ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH. WRONG SIDE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 62.--ANTIQUE HEM-STITCH. RIGHT SIDE.]

SLANTING HEM-STITCH (figs. 63 and 64).--Bring out your needle and
thread, two or three threads above the edge of the turning, between the
first and second of the three cross-threads that compose the cluster,
and then slip it under the cluster, from right to left. The loop must
lie in front of the needle. When you have drawn up the stitch, put the
needle in, one thread further on, and take up two threads. Fig. 64 shows
the stitch on the right side.

[Illustration: FIG. 63. SLANTING HEM-STITCH. WRONG SIDE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 64. SLANTING HEM-STITCH. RIGHT SIDE.]

DOUBLE-ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM (figs. 65, 66, 67).--Begin with any one
of the hems already described, then counting as many threads downwards,
as are clustered together in the first row, draw out a second thread,
and cluster the perpendicular threads in this second line together, as
shown in figs. 65 and 66. On the right side the stitch is straight (fig.
67). Coloured cottons should be used for all the above patterns of
hem-stitch, when they are to be introduced into coloured embroideries.

[Illustration: FIG. 65. DOUBLE-ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. WRONG SIDE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 66. DOUBLE-ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. WRONG SIDE.]

[Illustration: FIG. 67. DOUBLE-ROWED ORNAMENTAL SEAM. RIGHT SIDE.]

SINGLE THREE-ROWED OPEN-WORK (fig. 68).--This, and the following
patterns, are suitable for the headings of hems, and for connecting
stripes of embroidery, and are also often used instead of lace, and lace
insertion.

Fig. 68 will be found specially useful, in cases where the object is, to
produce a good deal of effect, at the cost of as little labour as
possible. Make six rows of hem-stitching, as in fig. 55; the first and
sixth rows to serve as a finish, above and below.