DS, IN THE MIDDLE OF THE
STUFF.]

BUTTON-HOLING THE RAW EDGES (fig. 98).--In very fine linen textures,
the threads can simply be cut out, but in the case of coarser stuffs,
and when a pattern ends in steps as in figs. 103, 104, 105, the raw
edges must be button-holed as in fig. 98, or 99.

[Illustration: FIG. 98. BUTTON-HOLING THE RAW EDGES OF CUT OPEN-WORK.]

OVERCASTING THE RAW EDGES (fig. 99).--Cording the raw edges, is even
better than button-holing them. Count the number of threads carefully
that have to be cut out, run in a thread to mark the pattern, and then
only, cut the threads through, at least two threads within the line.

[Illustration: FIG. 99. OVERCASTING THE RAW EDGES OF CUT OPEN-WORK.]

OVERCASTING THE TRELLISED GROUND (fig. 100).--If you only have a small
surface to embroider, you can draw out all the threads at once. But in
the case of a large piece of work it is better to begin by removing the
threads in one direction only, and completing all the little bars, one
way first; after which you draw out the threads the other way and
embroider those you leave. In this way you will secure greater equality
and finish in your work.

[Illustration: FIG. 100.--OVERCASTING THE TRELLISED GROUND.]

GROUND FOR SQUARE, FIG. 105 (figs. 101 and 102).--Finish the first row
of bars along the edge completely, to begin with. In the second row,
overcast the bar, down to half its length, then carry your thread over
two empty spaces, see the letter _a_, come back to the bar, overcasting
the thread which you threw across first, and passing the needle under
the bars of the stuff. In the second rows that intersect the first,
marked by letter _b_, the threads meet in the middle of the empty space.

In fig. 102, finish the bars, overcast both ways first, and then fill in
the ground with interlaced threads, worked row by row, throwing the
thread from one square to the other as you go, and doubling it, as you
return. For the bars, see the chapters on net embroidery, and Irish
lace.

[Illustration: FIG. 101. LATTICE-GROUND FOR SQUARE IN FIG. 105, SHOWING
THE COURSE OF THE STITCHES.]

[Illustration: FIG. 102. LATTICE-GROUND FOR SQUARE IN FIG. 105.]

LATTICE-GROUND AND DAMASK STITCH FOR SQUARE, FIG. 105 (fig. 103).--Our
illustration shows a third kind of openwork ground with one corner in
damask stitch, of the square represented in fig. 105. The little bars
which intersect each square crossways, are made in two divisions,