former, but in which the connecting bars, instead of
being left plain as they are in the Renaissance embroidery, are
ornamented with picots.

[Illustration: FIG. 194. RICHELIEU EMBROIDERY.]

MADEIRA WORK (figs. 195, 196, 197).--This kind of embroidery, which
consists chiefly of eyelet holes, and is distinguished for the
excellence of its workmanship used to be known as English, but is now
generally called Madeira work, from the island where it originated. The
scallops in figs. 195 and 197, are bordered with shaded eyelet holes,
worked half in button-hole stitch, half in overcasting; the finely
scalloped edge, in fig. 196, is entirely button-holed. In working eyelet
holes, the material must always be turned in, up to the inside line, and
completely worked in, underneath the in order that no loose threads may
be visible on the wrong side.

[Illustration: FIG. 195. MADEIRA WORK.]

[Illustration: FIG. 196. MADEIRA WORK. MATERIALS: Coton Madeira D.M.C
No. 40, 50 or 60. (Special cotton for Madeira work)[A]]

[Illustration: FIG. 197. MADEIRA-WORK. MATERIALS: Coton Madeira D.M.C
No. 40, 50 or 60. (Special cotton for Madeira-work).]

SWISS EMBROIDERY FRAME (fig. 198).--Letters, monograms, coronets and
the like, require extreme care in the working, and can only be really
well done in a frame. The round Swiss frame, or tambour frame, is the
one most commonly used. It consists of two wooden hoops, fitting loosely
into each other; the inner one, fastened to a support with a wooden
screw let into the lower part of it, with which to fasten the frame to
the table. The outside hoop is loose.

Place the fabric to be embroidered over the smaller hoop, the pattern in
the middle, and press the other down over it so that it is tightly
stretched and fixed between the two hoops.

A leathern strap with holes and a buckle, sometimes takes the place of
the second hoop.

[Illustration: FIG. 198. SWISS EMBROIDERY FRAME.]

ORDINARY EMBROIDERY FRAME (fig. 199).--Tambour frames can only be used
for embroidering pocket-handkerchiefs and other small articles; all
larger work has to be done in an ordinary frame. Sew a piece of strong
stuff into the frame, stretch it as tightly and evenly as possible, and
cut out a square in the middle to the size of the pattern. Then tack
your work in underneath, straight to the thread, dividing it out
carefully with pins first, to ensure its being set in perfectly evenly.
Roll or fold up the rest of the stu