half-cracked violin--which, added to the
never-ceasing smacking of whips of farmers, going to the next market town--
completed our state of restlessness and misery. Yet, the next morning, we
had a breakfast ... so choice, so clean, and so refreshing--in a place of
all others the least apparently likely to afford it--that we almost fancied
our strength had been recruited by a good night's sleep. The landlord could
not help his miserable mansion, for he was very poor: so I paid him
cheerfully and liberally for the accommodation he was capable of affording,
and at nine o'clock left Saudrupt in the hope of a late dinner at NANCY--
the capital of Lorraine.

The morning was fresh and fair. In the immediate neighbourhood of Saudrupt
is the pretty village of _Brillon_, where I noticed some stone crosses; and
where I observed that particular species of domestic architecture, which,
commencing almost at Longchamps, obtains till within nearly three stages of
Strasbourg. It consists in having rather low or flat roofs, in the Italian
manner, with all the beams projecting _outside_ of the walls: which gives
it a very unfinished and barbarous look. And here too I began to be more
and more surprised at the meagreness of the population of the _country_.
Even on quitting Epernay, I had noticed it to my companion. The human
beings you see, are chiefly females--ill-featured, and ill complexioned--
working hard beneath the rays of a scorching sun. As to that sabbath-attire
of cleanliness, even to smartness among our _own_ country people, it is a
thing very rarely to be seen in the villages of France. At Brillon, we
bought fine cherries, of a countrywoman for two sous the pound.

_Bar-le Duc_ is the next post-town. It is a place of considerable extent
and population: and is divided into the upper and lower town. The approach
to it, along hilly passes, covered with vineyards, is pleasant enough. The
driver wished to take us to the upper town--to see the church of St. Peter,
wherein is contained "a skeleton perforated with worm-holes, which was the
admiration of the best connoisseurs." We civilly declined such a sight, but
had no objection to visit the church. It was a Saint's day: and the
interior of the church was crowded to excess by women and lads. An old
priest was giving his admonition from the high altar, with great propriety
and effect: but we could not stay 'till the conclusion of the service. The
carriage was at the door; and, reasce