amous cities in the world--and _such_ a CATHEDRAL!"
The immediate approach to Strasbourg is flat and uninteresting; nor could
I, in every possible view of the tower of the cathedral, bring myself to
suppose it--what it is admitted to be--the _loftiest ecclesiastical edifice
in the world_!
The fortifications about Strasbourg are said to afford one of the finest
specimens of the skill of Vauban. They may do so; but they are very flat,
tame, and unpicturesque. We now neared the barriers: delivered our
passports; and darted under the first large brick arched way. A devious
paved route brought us to the second gate;--and thus we entered the town;
desiring the post-boy to drive to the _Hotel de l'Esprit_. "You judge
wisely, Sir, (replied he) for there is no Hotel, either in France or
Germany, like it." So saying, he continued, without the least intermission,
to make circular flourishes with his whip--accompanied by such ear-piercing
sounds, as caused every inhabitant to gaze at us. I entreated him to
desist; but in vain. "The English always enter in this manner," said he--
and having reached the hotel, he gave _one_ super-eminent flourish--which
threw him off his balance, and nearly brought him to the ground. When I
paid him, he pleaded hard for an _extra five sous_ for this concluding
flourish!
I am now therefore safely and comfortably lodged in this spacious hotel, by
the side of the river _Ill_--of which it is pleasing to catch the lingering
breezes as they stray into my chamber. God bless you.
* * * * *
P.S. One thing I cannot help adding--perhaps hardly deserving of a
postscript. All the way from Paris to Strasbourg, I am persuaded that we
did not meet _six_ travelling equipages. The lumbering diligence and steady
Poste Royale were almost the only vehicles in action besides our own. Nor
were _villas_ or _chateaux_ visible; such as, in our own country, enliven
the scene and put the traveller in spirits.
[200] A folio volume, printed at St. Nicolas, a neighbouring village, in
1518. It is a poem, written in Latin hexameter verse by P. Blaru [P.
de Blarrovivo]--descriptive of the memorable siege of Nancy in 1476,
by CHARLES THE RASH, Duke of Burgundy: who perished before the walls.
His death is described in the sixth book, _sign_. t. iiij: the
passage relating to it, beginning
"Est in Nanceijs aratro locus utilis aruis:"
A wood cut portrait of the c
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