d _dot_ your i's."

Portions of these chapters have been already published in No. 49 of
the _Nineteenth Century_,[2] in 1881; and more was delivered in three
unpublished lectures the same year.

I have acknowledged and noted on each page my authorities for the
facts I have quoted. The illustrations that are not original, have
been copied from other works by permission of authors and publishers.
To all of these I wish to express my obligations and thanks,
especially to Mr. Villiers Stuart, Dr. Anderson, Sir G. Birdwood, and
Sir H. Layard, for their courtesy in allowing me the use of their
plates. To my old and valued friend, Mr. Newton, I wish to express my
gratitude for his unstinted gifts of time and trouble, bestowed in
criticizing and correcting my book, encouraging me to give it to the
public, and making it more worthy of publication.

I have largely quoted Charles Blanc ("Ornament in Dress," English
translation), Von Bock ("Liturgische Gewaender"), Dr. Rock ("The Church
of our Fathers" and "Introduction to Textiles"), Semper ("Der Stil"),
Yates ("Textrinum Antiquorum"), and Yule ("Marco Polo"), besides many
others. But these authorities often differ, and, after weighing their
arguments, I have ventured to select for my use the facts and
theories which accord with my own views. Facts are often so
interdependent and closely linked, that it requires great care to
distinguish where they have been shaped or coloured (however
unintentionally) to fit each other or the writer's preconceived ideas.
Certain it is that facts are but useless heaps till the thread of a
theory is found on which to hang them. This process, like that of
stringing pearls, has to be often repeated, till each occupies its
right place. Only those who have adopted and cherished a theory can
appreciate the pain of cutting the thread, to displace what appeared
to be a pearl, but which, from its false position as to date or place,
or its doubtful origin, has proved only an empty manufactured glass
bead of error.

This has happened to me more than once; and since I read my lectures I
have had to change my opinions in several instances. If, therefore,
any of my readers should observe such changes, I hope they will give
me credit for trying to convey _now_ what appears to me on each
subject a correct impression.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Besides the art, I have sought to give something of
the archaeology of needlework. Now the qualifications for