8]

[38] _Memoirs_, vol. i. pp. 363-6.

EXCURSION IN NORTH WALES.

_Letter to Sir George H. Beaumont_.

Hindwell, Radnor, Sept. 20. 1824. MY DEAR SIR GEORGE,

After a three weeks' ramble in North Wales, Mrs. Wordsworth, Dora, and
myself are set down quietly here for three weeks more. The weather has
been delightful, and everything to our wishes. On a beautiful day we
took the steam-packet at Liverpool, passed the mouth of the Dee, coasted
the extremity of the Vale of Clwyd, sailed close under Great Orm's Head,
had a noble prospect of Penmaenmawr, and having almost touched upon
Puffin's Island, we reached Bangor Ferry, a little after six in the
afternoon. We admired the stupendous preparations for the bridge over
the Menai; and breakfasted next morning at Carnarvon. We employed
several hours in exploring the interior of the noble castle, and looking
at it from different points of view in the neighbourhood. At half-past
four we departed for Llanberris, having fine views as we looked back of
C. Castle, the sea, and Anglesey. A little before sunset we came in
sight of Llanberris Lake, Snowdon, and all the craggy hills and
mountains surrounding it; the foreground a beautiful contrast to this
grandeur and desolation--a green sloping hollow, furnishing a shelter
for one of the most beautiful collections of lowly Welsh cottages, with
thatched roofs, overgrown with plants, anywhere to be met with: the
hamlet is called Cum-y-glo. And here we took boat, while the solemn
lights of evening were receding towards the tops of the mountains. As we
advanced, Dolbardin Castle came in view, and Snowdon opened upon our
admiration. It was almost dark when we reached the quiet and comfortable
inn at Llanberris.

* * * * *

There being no carriage-road, we undertook to walk by the Pass of
Llanberris, eight miles, to Capel Cerig; this proved fatiguing, but it
was the only oppressive exertion we made during the course of our tour.
We arrived at Capel Cerig in time for a glance at the Snowdonian range,
from the garden of the inn, in connection with the lake (or rather pool)
reflecting the crimson clouds of evening. The outline of Snowdon is
perhaps seen nowhere to more advantage than from this place. Next
morning, five miles down a beautiful valley to the banks of the Conway,
which stream we followed to Llanrwst; but the day was so hot that we
could only make use of the morning and evening. Here we we