Our drive to
Aber in the evening was charming; sun setting in glory. We had also a
delightful walk next morning up the vale of Aber, terminated by a lofty
waterfall; not much in itself, but most striking as a closing
accompaniment to the secluded valley. Here, in the early morning, I saw
an odd sight--fifteen milk-maids together, laden with their brimming
pails. How cheerful and happy they appeared! and not a little inclined
to joke after the manner of the pastoral persons in Theocritus. That day
brought us to Capel Cerig again, after a charming drive up the banks of
the Ogwen, having previously had beautiful views of Bangor, the sea, and
its shipping. From Capel Cerig down the justly celebrated vale of Nant
Gwynant to Bethgelart. In this vale are two small lakes, the higher of
which is the only Welsh lake which has any pretensions to compare with
our own; and it has one great advantage over them, that it remains
wholly free from intrusive objects. We saw it early in the morning; and
with the greenness of the meadows at its head, the steep rocks on one of
its shores, and the bold mountains at _both_ extremities, a feature
almost peculiar to itself, it appeared to us truly enchanting. The
village of Bethgelart is much altered for the worse: new and formal
houses have, in a great measure, supplanted the old rugged and tufted
cottages, and a smart hotel has taken the lead of the lowly public-house
in which I took refreshment almost thirty years ago, previous to a
midnight ascent to the summit of Snowdon. At B. we were agreeably
surprised by the appearance of Mr. Hare, of New College, Oxford. We
slept at Tan-y-bylch, having employed the afternoon in exploring the
beauties of the vale of Festiniog. Next day to Barmouth, whence, the
following morning, we took boat and rowed up its sublime estuary, which
may compare with the finest of Scotland, having the advantage of a
superior climate. From Dolgelly we went to Tal-y-llyn, a solitary and
very interesting lake under Cader Idris. Next day, being Sunday, we
heard service performed in Welsh, and in the afternoon went part of the
way down a beautiful valley to Machynleth, next morning to Aberystwith,
and up the Rhydiol to the Devil's Bridge, where we passed the following
day in exploring those two rivers, and Hafod in the neighbourhood. I had
seen these things long ago, but either my memory or my powers of
observation had not done them justice. It rained heavily in the night,
and