borders the higher part of the Lake. The axe has here
indiscriminately levelled a rich wood of birches and oaks, that divided
this favoured spot into a hundred pictures. It has yet its land-locked
bays, and rocky promontories; but those beautiful woods are gone, which
_perfected_ its seclusion; and scenes, that might formerly have been
compared to an inexhaustible volume, are now spread before the eye in a
single sheet,--magnificent indeed, but seemingly perused in a moment!
From Blowick a narrow track conducts along the craggy side of
Place-fell, richly adorned with juniper, and sprinkled over with
birches, to the village of Sandwyke, a few straggling houses, that with
the small estates attached to them, occupy an opening opposite to
Lyulph's Tower and Gowbarrow Park. In Martindale,[49] the road loses
sight of the Lake, and leads over a steep hill, bringing you again into
view of Ullswater. Its lowest reach, four miles in length, is before
you; and the view terminated by the long ridge of Cross Fell in the
distance. Immediately under the eye is a deep-indented bay, with a plot
of fertile land, traversed by a small brook, and rendered cheerful by
two or three substantial houses of a more ornamented and showy
appearance than is usual in those wild spots.
From Pooley Bridge, at the foot of the Lake, Haweswater may be
conveniently visited. Haweswater is a lesser Ullswater, with this
advantage, that it remains undefiled by the intrusion of bad taste.
Lowther Castle is about four miles from Pooley Bridge, and, if during
this Tour the Stranger has complained, as he will have had reason to do,
of a want of majestic trees, he may be abundantly recompensed for his
loss in the far-spreading woods which surround that mansion. Visitants,
for the most part, see little of the beauty of these magnificent
grounds, being content with the view from the Terrace; but the whole
course of the Lowther, from Askham to the bridge under Brougham Hall,
presents almost at every step some new feature of river, woodland, and
rocky landscape. A portion of this tract has, from its beauty, acquired
the name of the Elysian Fields;--but the course of the stream can only
be followed by the pedestrian.
NOTE.--_Vide_ p. 227.--About 200 yards beyond the last house on the
Keswick side of Rydal village the road is cut through a low wooded rock,
called Thrang Crag. The top of it, which is only a few steps on the
south side, affords the best view of the Val
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