ssed into a
miserable dirty room, with only a board for a bedstead.

At Patras we had abundance of consultation, whether to undertake the
journey to Corinth and Athens by land, or to encounter the gulf. We
concluded to venture on the latter, and contracted with the captain of a
little boat to depart at five the next morning. He deceived us by not
sailing at the time proposed; but we made an agreement with other sailors
to go off in the evening, hoping to get to Corinth the next morning: but,
after tossing all night, we found in the morning the ship had only made
twenty miles; and about mid-day the captain declared he could not get to
Corinth, and must put into a small port on the opposite side of the gulf,
called Galaxidi, and wait for better weather. We were so exhausted as to
feel thankful in the prospect of being once more on land. Nothing can be
more comfortless than these small Greek vessels; in the cabin you can
neither stand nor lie at full length.

After some difficulty in getting on shore, we were led to the khan, a very
large room with a fire in one corner for boiling water, and a wine store;
and round the side were benches which served for sitting by day, and on
which the traveller spreads his mattress for the night, if he has one; if
not, he must go without. We were desired to mount a ladder to a loft like
a corn-floor, badly tiled in, and divided into four parts by boards about
five feet high. The one division of this place assigned to us had no door,
and when the windows were shut, which were of wood, there was no light
what shone through the tiling or was admitted between the boards. The
place was soon furnished, for the boy brought us a mat and spread it on
the floor, which was all we had a right to expect; but as we seemed to be
visitors who could pay pretty well, they brought also a rough wooden table
and three wooden stools.

2_nd_.--Galaxidi is in ruins, presenting only mud cottages and
temporary wooden houses; ships also are in building.

4_th_.--This morning we walked among the huts of the town, and found
an old man keeping school near the ruins of his own school-room, which had
been destroyed by the Turks. It happened to be his dinner-time, and he was
seated cross-legged on a stone, with a footstool before him, enjoying a
few olives and a morsel of bread. Around him stood his ragged pupils,
reading from leaves torn out of old books, some of which were so worn and
dirty that the poor boys could