nd is called
the friend of every man: he has been a real friend to us.

The Governor and his wife have paid us marked attention. The former took
us to see the prison, which is well conducted, and the prisoners are
classed. We suggested the benefit likely to result from the prisoners
being employed, and Major Longley [the Governor] intends to introduce
basket-making. We have, in addition to the public schools, visited several
private ones, and are pleased to find so many children receiving
education: this is really the chief source of hope for improving the
morals of the Greeks, and dispersing the gross darkness which surrounds
this people, whose long servitude and sufferings under very hard masters
have almost driven them back to barbarism.

17_th_.--There was a shock of earthquake, more violent than has been
felt for some years in this place. Our room shook almost like a ship at
sea; the walls, beds, tables, and glasses were all in motion, and the
sensation, while it lasted, was that of sea-sickness. The noise may be
compared to the rolling of a carriage with many horses coming at full
speed, and suddenly stopping at the dwelling. (See _Eastern
Customs_, p. 78.)

Having thus explored the four principal islands of the Ionian Archipeligo.
John and Martha Yeardley turned their course towards the Morea.

30_th_.--At 6 o'clock in the morning we put ourselves once more at
the mercy of the waves of the Mediterranean, and had a quick passage of
fourteen hours. The landing at Patras was frightful; a sudden squall threw
us off the shore, and caused us to lose part of the rudder, so that we
were obliged to get into a very small boat, which threatened to upset
every moment. We were, however, favored to land in safety on a projecting
rock: it was nearly dark, and the whole had a terrific appearance.

The plains near Patras, once beautifully planted with currants, olives and
vines, are now perfectly desolate. The castle was in possession, of the
Turks eight years, who made continual sallies from it for provision and
firewood; while, in order to disappoint them, the Greeks themselves
assisted in the destruction of all vegetation; so that there is scarcely
any green thing to be seen. The old town is a scene of ruins; the site of
the new town is near the sea, where temporary shops and houses have been
erected.

It was difficult to find a shelter for the night; but a kind
fellow-traveller assisted us, and at length we were pre