say? I climbed into an uncovered carriage, the
wind blowing 'strong as when in the high mountains it shivers the
trembling holm-oaks.' It was a south wind and blowing like the very
pest. I thought I was well protected by my wrappings, but it went
through everything with its violence. Towards nightfall a light rain
came on, more noxious than the wind that preceded it: I arrived at
Aachen exhausted from the shaking of the carriage, which was so trying
to me on the stone-paved road that I should have preferred sitting on my
horse, lame as he was. Here I was carried off from the inn by a canon,
to whom the Count had recommended me, to Suderman's house. There several
canons were holding their usual drinking-party. My appetite had been
sharpened by a very light lunch; but at the time they had nothing by
them but carp, and cold carp at that. I ate to repletion. The drinking
went on well into the night. I excused myself and went to bed, as I had
had very little sleep the night before.
On the following day I was taken to the Vice-Provost's house; it was his
turn to offer hospitality. As there was no fish there apart from eel
(this was certainly the fault of the storm, as he is a magnificent host
otherwise) I lunched off a fish dried in the open air, which the Germans
call _Stockfisch_, from the rod used to beat it--it is a fish which I
enjoy at other times: but I discovered that part of this one had not
been properly cured. After lunch, as the weather was appalling, I took
myself off to the inn and ordered a fire to be lit. The canon whom I
mentioned, a most cultured man, stayed talking with me for about an hour
and a half. Meanwhile I began to feel very uncomfortable inside; as this
continued, I sent him away and went to the privy. As this gave my
stomach no relief I inserted my finger into my mouth, and the uncured
fish came up, but that was all. I lay down afterwards, not so much
sleeping as resting, without any pain in my head or body; then, having
struck a bargain with the coachman over the bags, I received an
invitation to the evening compotation. I excused myself, without
success. I knew that my stomach would not stand anything but a few sups
of warmed liquor.... On this occasion there was a magnificent spread,
but it was wasted on me. After comforting my stomach with a sup of wine,
I went home; I was sleeping at Suderman's house. As soon as I went out
of doors my empty body shivered fearfully in the night air.
On the
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