minaret. These are the ruins of the mosque of
Sultan Selim, called by the Greeks the church of St. John, though it was
certainly not the church under which the saint was buried. There are the
remains of a Christian church behind those of the mosque, and below a
ruined Turkish castle with a Roman gateway which crowns the hill still
farther north. The apse of this ruined church, also called St. John by
the native Greeks, is still visited and venerated by them.

A ruined aqueduct stalked across the plain from east to west, bearing
high in air the rude nests of numerous storks, which were to be seen
sitting or standing on their nests or flying deliberately to and fro
with that air of being perfectly at home which belongs to storks in
whatever part of the world they may chance to make their sojourn. This
aqueduct received its water from a tunnel in the eastern range, and was
probably the principal source of supply for the city in Roman times. The
ruins of another (tunnelled) aqueduct have been discovered of late years
coming from the mountains to the south of the city; and this is probably
much older than the first named, as the Greeks preferred that mode of
conducting water wherever practicable, their subterranean channels, a
sort of syphon arrangement, being in use long before any of the Roman
aqueducts were built. The fact is, that the Greeks early found out that
water would find its own level, while the Romans, if they knew the fact,
did not always act upon it.

Far off from the railway-station, to the west and south-west, in the
midst of the dreary marshy plain, rose Mount Coressus, about which as a
centre formerly clustered the imperial city of Diana. Hardly a moving
thing was in sight but the flying storks and the waving green patches of
rushes and of grain bowed by the strong imbat, which wafted
cloud-shadows over the rather melancholy landscape. The peasants who
till the arable part of the plain only come down there to work at the
planting and the harvest, and live at Kirkenjee, a town on the
mountain-side. Malaria does not permit them to live nearer to their
work. Indeed, the traces of the swamp-poison were plainly seen in the
faces of the railway employes and other residents in the vicinity of the
station. While we were taking this glance about us our hampers were
deposited on the platform and the train rattled off again with great
briskness, as if time were of any importance, and as if the whole
arrangement were