not an anachronism in this part of the world!

We were to return to have our picnic at the ruins on our right, after
which we should be in readiness for the evening train; but just now the
great thing was to get to horse and to finish the necessary
sight-seeing before the heat of the day if possible. And so the horses
were brought up. Such horses! Plucky enough, but small and lean and
scraggy, of all colors and all degrees of ugliness. Three English
side-saddles had been brought out in the train for the ladies, while the
men of the party took the horse-gear provided by the owner of the
animals, instruments of torture known as Turkish saddles. The two young
ladies, light weights, were soon mounted. Then the horse intended for
the Armenian lady was brought up alongside the platform, and her husband
placed her upon the side-saddle after a careful tightening of girths.
When the horse, which seemed lighter than his burden, moved away, the
saddle at once began to turn in a very deliberate fashion, depositing
the fair rider gently upon the ground. There they were, the rider seated
quietly upon the turf, and the side-saddle pendulous between the horse's
legs, the animal apparently much puzzled to know what to make of the
strange machine, but evidently not intending any such nonsense as
running away. The men rushed at the animal, righted the saddle, and
hauled away at the girths until the horse became quite wasp-like in
form. He was then led back to the platform, and the lady's ponderous
form was once more placed on the side-saddle, only to repeat the turning
operation, gravity asserting itself with all the ease and certainty
belonging to natural laws. Our laughter was by this time uncontrollable,
the good-natured Armenian joining in it heartily, and a consultation was
held to determine what was to be done. She was out for a day's pleasure,
and evidently did not mean to be left behind. Finally, it was determined
that she should take one of the other saddles; and she mounted one
accordingly, the horse then moving off slowly, but well enough, as the
weight was evenly balanced. I have seldom seen a jollier sight than that
portly dame, in her resplendent skirts and spick-and-span French bonnet
and parasol, mounted _en cavalier_.

Having discreetly and safely accomplished this difficult piece of
business, we all set off by a narrow footpath, muddy in many places,
toward the site of the ancient city. We passed patches of cultivated