And she fancies a death-scream in th' echoing wind.

In the house where I slept--as indeed in every house of the same
character in the county--the whole stock of the family, consisting
chiefly of cows and sheep, were locked in at night. Such was the extreme
poverty of the people that they would not be otherwise safe. The weather
was excessively wet, and, for the season, cold. There was a slight
partition between the room where my bed was and the kitchen, where there
were three cows, a man, his wife and four children. It is impossible to
convey any idea of the sensations which crowd upon one in such a scene.
I fell asleep at last, lulled by the heavy breathing and monotonous
ruminating of the cows. Never was deeper sleep. On being awakened next
morning by my watchful friend, it required some time before I could
satisfy myself of my position. An excellent breakfast was provided for
me, and I parted from my stout-hearted and magnanimous ally. He had sent
my baggage, and also provided me with a guide who would lead me across
the mountains. He taught me the password of his clan, which I was to use
on certain contingencies. The morning was fearfully wet, and we did not
travel many miles before we were wet to the skin. The circumstance was
the most auspicious that could occur, as it enabled us to pass
unobserved.

[Illustration: James Stephens (Circa 1867)]

[Illustration: John O'Mahony (Circa 1868)]

Besides this, it facilitated the task of crossing streams, which we
always did precisely as if they were dry land. One river only opposed a
serious barrier to us--that, which enters Kenmare Bay. It was greatly
swollen, and rushed fiercely over precipitous rocks. At the same time,
even in the rain and tempest, to cross the bridge was not to be thought
of. The guide pointed out a house belonging to one of our friend's
clan who immediately provided a horse and accompanied us to a ford. When
we reached the ford he hesitated to cross, so deep and rapid was the
flood. No persuasion could induce him to make the experiment. I had no
choice left but to trust myself to chance. I faced the animal against
the current, and forcing him to make his best efforts to mount the
stream, we were carried directly across. The owner of the horse said he
would come back of his own accord. I turned him into the stream, and
when half way across, he was borne headlong over a precipice, where I
concluded he was dashed to pieces. Another horse was immedia