wed undeniable signs of condition.
Many, however, saluted me respectfully, and touched their hats as to
one of rank above their own, and not one displayed anything approaching
levity or a jest at my singular exterior. It might possibly have been
the secluded character of the spot itself, or that the recent peace with
England had brought about the change; but whatever the cause, neither
police nor gendarmerie questioned me as to my passport, and I strolled
into the first cafe that presented itself, to take my breakfast, without
hindrance or impediment.
While I enjoyed my meal, I amused myself with the newspapers, at that
time filled with descriptions of festivities and court receptions, at
which the English were the honored guests. Instead of the accustomed
allusions to insular eccentricity, awkwardness, and boorish unsociality,
there were nothing but praises of English frankness and cordial
simplicity. I saw that the Government, for doubtless good reasons of its
own, had given the initiative to this new estimation of my countrymen;
and resolved, if possible, to reap the benefit of it, I repaired to the
Mairie and asked to see the "Maire." In a few words, I told him that I
had laid a heavy wager to travel up to Paris and back to England without
a passport; that I had made this foolish bet at a dinner-party, which
I quitted to accomplish my undertaking. My intention had been to have
landed at Havre; but, by ill-luck, we were driven on shore to the
north'ard, and narrowly escaped shipwreck; from which having saved
myself, I reached Lys, destitute of everything save a small sum of money
I carried about me. I told this story with the air of one who really
felt that any impediment to so harmless a project must be impossible,
and with such success that the Maire invited me into his drawing-room to
repeat my tale to his family, as an excellent illustration of the length
to which English eccentricity could go.
My manners, the facility with which I spoke French, my calm assurance of
not requiring any other aid or assistance than the friendly offices of
the authorities, so gained his favor that he promised to think over the
matter, and give me his opinion in the morning. I asked for no more.
I was not impatient to get forward; and at that moment the little
grass-grown streets and alleys of Lys were as pleasing to me as the most
fashionable thoroughfares of a great city.
He did not send for me, as he promised, on the following
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