apped
up the offer.

Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the market,
so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months up to two years
fetched higher prices. They were called "old," such as Old Herkimer,
Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old California Jack.

Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh, medium-cured,
and cured or aged, commercially they are divided into two and
described as mild and sharp. The most popular are named for their
states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York, Ohio, Vermont and
Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called and named separately, Coon
and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes by its own name with no mention of
Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey Jack and Sage are seldom listed as
Cheddars at all, although they are basically that.

Brick

Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world gives
America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals say is too
close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a Cheddar under its
crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet Brick is no more
distinguished than either of the hundred percent Americans, and in our
opinion is less worth bragging about.

It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for sandwiches and
melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic but not rubbery, its
taste sweetish, and it is full of little round holes or eyes. All this
has inspired enthusiasts to liken it to Emmentaler. The most
appropriate name for it has long been "married man's Limburger." To
make up for the mildness caraway seed is sometimes added.

About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge County,
Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese made of whole
cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated, stirred and cooked
firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a bottom and with slits in
the sides to drain. When this is set on the draining table a couple of
bricks are also laid on the cooked curd for pressure. It is this
double use of bricks, for shaping and for pressing, that has led to
the confusion about which came first in originating the name.

The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three days and
they ripen slowly, taking up to two months.

We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that comes from
Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York.

Colorado Blackie Cheese

A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on our cheese
map. It is ca