erate harem of only five wives.
_Thursday, February 11th_.--Visited the town to get sights for my
chronometers--which puts the town at 44.26.30 N., just 30" less than
Captain Owen's determination. The town, as viewed from the anchorage, is
a picturesque object, with its tall minaret, its two forts, one perched
on a hill commanding the town, and the other on the sea-beach, and its
stone houses; but the illusion is rudely dispelled on landing. You land
on a beach of rocks and shingle, through a considerable surf even in the
calmest weather. The beach was strewn with the washed clothes of the
ship, and a set of vagabonds of all colour, save only that of the
Caucasian, were hanging about looking curiously on. The town is
dilapidated and squalid to the last degree--the houses of rough stones,
cemented and thatched; the streets five feet wide, and rendered, as it
would seem, purposely crooked.
It was the second day of the fast of Ramadan, and groups of idlers were
congregated in the narrow porticoes reading the Koran. The language,
which is peculiar to the island, is very soft and pleasing to the ear.
We visited one of the principal houses. The walls were filled with a
number of small niches, receptacles for everything imaginable--coffee-cups,
ornaments, &c. A number of couches were ranged round the room.
A crowd of half-clad, dirty children gathered round us, but no female
made her appearance. We took our sights among the gaping multitude, all
of whom were very civil and polite, and returned on board about 5 P.M.,
having seen all the outside life that was to be seen at Auzuan. The
inside life was, of course, out of our reach.
Upon coming on deck this morning I was struck with the soft picturesque
beauty of the hills, as shone upon by the morning sun lighting up the
tops and sides, and throwing the valleys and ravines into shade. At
night I am lulled by the roar of the sea upon the beach. It is
delightful to sniff the fragrance of the land as it comes off to us
upon the dew-laden wings of the softest of breezes. My fellows on shore
looked rueful and woe-begone--nature had no charms for them--there was
no liquor to be had! If I were to remain here long, I should send them
on shore as a punishment.
_Friday, February 12th_.--This is the Mahommedan Sabbath, but they do
not keep it so grimly as the Puritans. We had a number of visitors on
board, and among others, several princes, cousins-german of the Sultan,
one of them
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