re
_until one becomes responsive to other colors_. I do not mean
particular patches of color in flowers and blossoms. These are of a
season. Often they pass in a week. The sun that gives rich life kills
quickly. The glory of south lands, especially along the sea, is the
constant changing of colors. These colors you will drink in only when
by familiarity you have become sensitive to lights and shadows.

If you stay long enough at a place like Menton you will be ready for
Southern Italy and Greece. You will be able to drink in the beauty of
landscapes without foliage. And when you have acquired this sense,
your own country will be a new world to you. Never again, as long as
you live, will you tire of any landscape.

The sun veils and unveils itself more often and more quickly and more
unexpectedly at Menton than at any place on the Riviera. And the
setting for watching the changes is perfect. Menton can say, in the
words of the old sundial,

"Son figlia del sole,
Eppure son ombre."

CHAPTER VII

MONTE CARLO

San Marino and Andorra have maintained their independence from the Middle
Ages, but as republics. The only reigning families who kept their
domains from being engulfed in the evolution of modern Europe are those
of Liechtenstein and Monaco. What will happen to Liechtenstein with the
disappearance of the Hapsburg Empire is uncertain. Wedged in between the
Vorarlberg portion of the Austrian Tyrol and Switzerland, Liechtenstein
is almost as out of the way, as forgotten, as unimportant, as San Marino
and Andorra. Monaco is in a different situation. The smallest country
in the world covers only eight square miles, and never was very much
larger than it is today. Until half a century ago Monaco was an Italian
principality and not at all an anomaly. For Italy had been broken up
into small political units from the Roman days. At the time of the
unification of Italy, the Italians had to part with a portion of the
Riviera to France. Monaco lost a bit of her coast line--the Menton
district--and became an enclave in France.

Because of the traditional friendship of the Grimaldi family for France,
the principality was saved from extinction when the protectorate of Savoy
(established by the Congress of Vienna) was withdrawn in 1861. In fact,
the male line of the Grimaldi died out just after the War of Spanish
Succession, and the present house is of French descent. But whether
Grimaldi or Ma