ing season sets in, but one
does miss the sand. At Cannes kiddies are not deprived of pails and
shovels and grownups can stretch out their blankets and plant their
umbrellas.

The Promenade de la Croisette runs along the sea from the Casino to the
Restaurant de la Reserve on La Croisette. The difference between the
Promenade de la Croisette and the Promenade des Anglais was summed up
by an English friend of mine in five words. "More go-carts and less
dogs," he said. "More wives and less _cocottes_," the Artist put it.
Of course there are some children at Nice and some _cocottes_ at
Cannes. And where fashion reigns the difference between _mondaine_ and
_demi-mondaine_ is unfortunately not always apparent. Gold frequently
glitters. But Cannes is less garish than Nice in buildings and in
people.

Doubling the Cap de la Croisette, we are in the Golfe Juan, with the
Cap d'Antibes beyond. Here Napoleon, fearing his possible reception at
Saint-Raphael, landed on his return from Elba. A column marks the
spot. Bound for the final test of arms at Waterloo, Napoleon little
dreamed that twenty years later his English foes would begin to make a
peaceable conquest of this coast, and that within a hundred years
French and English would be fighting side by side on French soil
against the Germans. How much did the Englishman's love of the Riviera
have to do with the Entente Cordiale? What part did the Riviera play
in the Franco-Russian Alliance? British and Russian sovereigns always
showed as passionate a fondness for this corner of France as their
subjects. There were even English and Russian churches at Cannes and
Nice. Men who played a vital part in forming political alliances were
regular visitors to the Riviera. At the beginning of the Promenade de
la Croisette, only three miles from the Napoleon column, stands Puech's
remarkable statue of Edward VII, who spoke French with a German accent,
but who never concealed his preference for France over the land of his
ancestors.

One charm of Cannes is the feeling one has of not being crowded. At
Nice and along the eastern Riviera hotels and villas jostle each other.
Around Cannes the gardens are more important than the buildings.
Striking straight inland from the Casino past the railway station, the
broad Boulevard Carnot gradually ascends to Le Cannet. This is the
only straight road out of Cannes. All the other roads wind and turn,
bringing you constantly around une